My brother Mike, his friend Kevin, and three of his fellow professors in the UBC math department had arranged to do one of George Steck's Grand Canyon hiking loops during the spring university reading break. I invited myself along. The trip involved flying to Las Vegas, driving to Kanab where we met up with Kevin, and continuing the next day in Kevin's SUV to the trail head near Indian Hollow campground on the north rim of the Grand Canyon. From there we hiked down to the Colorado river, then downstream to Kanab creek, and up this creek to Jump-up creek and then Indian Hollow and back up to the rim.
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| Stunning sunrise from plane window in Vancouver with Mount Baker in the distance |
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There was a balloon festival on the morning after we arrived in Kanab that was right outside our hotel
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Being smaller than the rest, I volunteered to join the baggage in a jump seat at the back of Kevin's SUV - photo courtesy of Eric Cytrynbaum.
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The SUV bogged down in the fresh snow despite deflating tires and putting on chains, so we walked the last 4 kms of the road
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At the North rim, the snow had melted and we began a long traverse to find a safe way down to the Esplanade
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Long traverse to avoid steep and impassable cliffs
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We had hoped to go further on day one but ended up camping where we found some potholes full of snow melt water. Fresh water is scarce in places and we had to be very careful to choose a site where we could find some nearby.
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My brother and I on the esplanade next morning
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Kevin and Andrew hike along the esplanade. We are heading for Surprise valley, where we will descend from this shelf towards Deer Creek
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Mike pauses by an impressive rock formation. This would have also been a good campsite, being level and having nearby water-filled pot-holes
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Eric at an overlook above Deer Creek Falls with our first full view of the Colorado river.
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Deer Creek falls. Eric took the plunge and had an invigorating shower here (photos censored)
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Mouth of Deer Creek. There were dozens of barrel cacti in this area. We turned right here and began an arduous traverse along the river towards Kanab Creek
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The walking along the Colorado involved trying to stay as low as possible to avoid boulder hopping but high enough up to stay out of the thorny mesquite and other brush. Here we have arrived at our stop for the night at Fishtail creek.
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Fishtail creek was dry except for a few puddles, so we drew water from these and filtered it before making tea and rehydrating our supper. Dan is using a water bottle to fill a water bag to avoid stirring things up.
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We had a pleasant sunset on the river but the rapids were so loud you had to talk loudly to have a conversation.
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The next morning we carried on along the river, at times climbing up onto the bluffs to bypass areas where cliffs ran down into the river.
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Lovely reflections at the mouth of Kanab Creek. This is where we hiked away from the Colorado.
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We did not stop at the canyon mouth, but instead began our hike up Kanab. There was a lot of water in the canyon and most of us got in over our boot tops on the first day in the canyon. We camped that night a couple of hours up the canyon beside running water.
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The next day, we made a side trip up a small canyon to find Whispering Falls. Not sure we actually made it there or perhaps they were just dry.
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Taking a break in Kanab
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Mike taking a break. There was quite a bit of wading and climbing around obstacles in this stretch of the canyon.
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Andrew wades across Kanab creek. We crossed the creek hundreds of times.
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Near Scotty's Castle. The water is beginning to get shallower and runs much slower here.
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Shower bath spring provided a nice rest spot.
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We camped the second night in the canyon on a sandy bluff above a mostly dry river bed. Fortunately there were still pockets of fresh water we could filter. These sandy stalagmites were made by falling water.
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On day 6 we headed into Jump-up Canyon which would take us into Indian Hollow. Here we are negotiating a place in the canyon where it was impossible to get through, requiring us to climb around. Eric is figuring out a route up and we will haul the packs up on ropes.
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Mike gets ready to haul packs up the cliffs. The packs took a terrible beating being dragged over rough limestone, but it would have been dangerous for the less confident climbers to carry them while climbing.
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Kevin takes a picture of Andrew crossing a narrow ledge and Mike getting ready to lower the packs back down to the canyon floor.
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Dan climbs around another chockstone blocking the canyon
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We had water in Jump-up and Indian Hollow with few deep pools to negotiate
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The group takes a shade break
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Working around another pool obstacle
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Attractive rock and water patterns
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Later in the day, the light warmed the canyon walls
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We made the sensible decision to camp on this rocky plateau. The last water was 10 minutes hike back down Indian Hollow and we were to see no more water until we climbed up into the snow many hours later the next day.
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It was below zero on the last day and Eric had to warm up the gas cylinder to get it to heat our breakfast water properly
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There were several tricky problems on our last day, requiring climbing skills and pack hauling with rope
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As others have noted in their trip reports the last day out involves a lot of thrashing through brush and low trees.
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Even my dauntless brother was looking a bit tired towards the end of the hike
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I think Kevin wins the award for most visible damage with a lacerated arm from the thorny brush and a bashed up nose from an earlier fall.
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Before saying bye to Kevin who was driving to Durango while we headed to Las Vegas, we stopped for a last meal in Kanab. Key lime pie and death by chocolate for dessert!
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We talked about doing another canyon hike next year and I hope I get invited along on this one too.
