Go the Wrong Way: November 2022

On our way to Newfoundland from Nova Scotia this August, we spent a day at the historic fortress of Louisbourg. This is a national historic site located near the top end of Cape Breton. During the summer, the fortress is alive with re-enactors or 'animators' who portray what it would have been like when the French occupied this part of, what was then Isle Royale, in the first half of the 18th century. Begun in the 1960's, the fortress is the largest historical reconstruction project in North America. The animators re-create a day in the year 1744. We spent a whole day there enjoying the 18th cetury ambience and watching the firing of canons, a public sentencing, and an apprentice working in a smithy. We even ate lunch at an 18th century tavern.Thankfully the repast was from the current period, so no maggot-ridden bread on our plates, and the ale was very tasty!

See this link for a good description of the history of Fort Louisbourg.

The first person we met was a fisherman, living in a building outside the walls of the fortress. One of the reasons for the founding of Louisbourg was to protect French commercial interests - specifically the seasonal fishery here, which supplied enormous quantities of cod to France and its empire.

The recreation ranges from dozens of buildings down to the smallest items. Many items were reproduced but other pieces (some furniture, for example) were obtained by purchase at auctions.

There is a moat and ditches around much of the fortress

Canons are fired twice a day. This soldier is setting things up for the firing

Both within and outside the fortress were kitchen gardens and larger gardens to feed the troops

This animator was working with livestock in the gardens

Visitors explore the herb and vegetable garden at the engineer's house

The French royal fleur de lis motif is found in dozens of items throughout the fortress

The gun firing is announced by fife and drums

We met this soldier returning to his barracks. He told us that his wages were a pittance - barely enough to subsist. See this link for details on soldier's pay

Rani takes a break along the defensive walls

Only a small fraction of the original fortress has been recreated, but what is there is a lovely mix of architecture.

King's Bastion barracks

Detail of barrack wall. Access to original French plans allowed for a faithful recreation

I loved the weathered wood roofs, which fit so well on this windswept rocky coast

A turkey preens itself.

Rani examines a tumbril

View from a storehouse second story

Each animator is based on an actual person who would have lived at the fortress. I believe this gentleman acted as a judge amongst his other duties

We watched these women making lace

Soldiers lead a captured felon for sentencing

Reading of the sentence - deportation to France. Crowd was shouting for stiffer penalty!

Events such as this sentencing were public entertainment

An apprentice in a a smithy learns his art. Apparently apprenticeship could last for decades. This boy is the son of the fortress's blacksmith and will likely set up his own forge or replace his father when he retires.